Jerry Ross has replaced his damper on the engine/transmission and graciously agreed to share his write up and photos. The following is presented with his permission. Thanks again Jerry for this valuable information.
To compliment other posts about the M35B damper plate, here is my experience. At slightly over 700 engine hours, I discovered black/grey power in the starboard rear area of my engine compartment. I first though it was from the alternator belt but not so. Shortly later I noticed a chattering sound in idle that would decrease when engine rpm increased. I think the clattering had been there for some time but I just did not pay attention to it. Based on other posts, I decided the problem was likely the damper plate. I disconnected the transmission output shaft from the prop shaft, raised the engine rear, removed the transmission, and removed and replaced the damper plate. The damper plate has a non-metallic center which was coming apart with chunks in the bell housing bottom. These chunks were being ground into fine power that was blowing out the timing mark viewing hole in the starboard side of the bell housing. I replaced the damper plate and problem solved. Upon request, I will email a fairly detailed summary with pictures of how I raised the engine rear and removed and replaced the damper plate. I did all the work and the damper plate cost $404.32 at R. B. Grove, Inc. in Pensacola. Below is a description of the pictures.
DP01.jpg: New damper plate on left and old on right.
DP02.jpg: New damper plate.
DP03.jpg: Old damper plate.
DP04.jpg: Old damper plate showing chunks removed from bell housing.
DP05.jpg: Part number tag for new damper plate.
DP06.jpg: Port rear engine mount area showing bolt used to raise engine rear.
DP07.jpg: Wood piece used to keep pressure on dripless seal.
DP08.jpg: New damper plate installed in bell housing.
DP09.jpg: Another shot of new damper plate in bell housing.
DP10.jpg: Transmission reinstalled and engine rear still raised.
DP11.jpg: Another shot of transmission output shaft and prop shaft flanges disconnected.
Damper Plate Replacement Procedure:
Remove exhaust hose from muffler then from exhaust elbow and set aside. Observe about one cup clear water in hose which spilled into prop shaft sump.
Siphon water from shaft sump and sponge dry.
Make alignment marks on transmission output flange and on prop shaft flange with file.
Using 17 mm wrench, loosen four bolts connecting transmission output flange and prop shaft flange. Bolts not very tight and nuts & lock washer are to front. No play between flanges so remove all four bolts. Now can turn flanges versus each other but no fore/aft movement of either flange. Clearance between flanges less than 0.003 inches all points.
Remove seizing wire from two prop flange set screws and loosen screws using 3/8-inch open end wrench. Screws not very tight.
Use flat screwdriver to pry prop shaft flange from transmission flange but prop shaft moves back rather than flange moving on prop shaft.
Remove prop shaft flange set screws and shoot WD40 into holes and into cotter key hole but still can not slide flange on prop shaft. Tap flange with hammer but no good.
Using 15/16-inch wrench, remove nuts & washers from rear motor mounts.
Break for lunch.
Begin trying to raise and block rear of motor but can not get a jack or lever board under engine so decide to use a screw mechanism to raise engine.
Remove some of the engine compartment air exhaust hose and blower and push aside.
Using a 6-inch long 3/8-inch diameter carriage bolt with nut and fender washers, raise engine rear to gain sufficient clearance to remove transmission. This means the transmission and prop shaft flanges will barely pass each other when the transmission is pulled back from the bell housing. No need to loosen front engine mounts. See pictures which were taken after transmission was reinstalled. The bolt was put through a hole in the port engine mount flange located behind the hole the mount bolt goes thorough. Block the starboard engine mount flange with wood blocks after the engine is raised as a safety measure.
Disconnect transmission shift linkage and associated bracket and lay on engine compartment floor. Can be seen lying on floor in picture DP_11.jpg.
Remove six bolts holding transmission to bell housing then pry transmission loose using screwdriver at partially unscrewed bolts. Note that two bottom port bolts must be inserted before transmission is fully splined up. Otherwise there is not sufficient clearance to insert later.
Observe chunks of damper plate in bottom of bell housing and remove chunks.
Using 3/16-inch allen wrench, remove five cap screws holding damper plate in place and remove damper. This requires bumping over engine with starter because only one or two screws can be accessed at any given engine rotation position. Exercise extreme care to ensure allen wrench is removed and that ensure engine does not start before bumping over engine with starter.
Note engine rotation is clockwise looking at engine from front or water pump end and counterclockwise looking at engine from rear or transmission end.
Clean bell housing and engine compartment using vacuum cleaner.
Use short board to secure prop shaft in aft position to prevent dripless seal from leaking. See picture DP_07.jpg.
Stop for now and wait on new damper plate.
Receive new damper plate from R. B. Grove, Inc. See picture DP_05.jpg for part number.
Observe hole in starboard side of bell housing, probably to view timing marks. This is where black/grey powder escaped from bell housing.
Install new damper plate using five set screws requiring 3/16-inch allen wrench. Use Permatex Threadlocker Medium Strength Blue which says allows for disassembly or adjustment with normal hand tools. Elect to not use Loctite Threaderlocker Red 271 which says to disassemble, apply localized heat for five minutes at 450°F and disassemble while hot. Tighten each screw as tight as seemed possible without stripping threads or breaking allen wrench.
Drain and flush transmission.
Install transmission using six bolts with lock washers and 17 mm wrench. . Put Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant on transmission shaft splines before inserting into damper plate. Note that two bottom port bolts must be inserted before transmission is fully splined up.
Lower engine rear and, while doing so, simply push motor mount vertical bolts side to side to line up with brackets on engine.
Connect transmission output flange to prop shaft flange with four bolts with nuts and washers to front. Use 17 mm wrenches and tighten as much as possible.
Install two set screws in prop shaft flange and seize with wire after tightening screws fairly tight.
Install shift linkage using two bolts with washers and ½-inch wrench. Grease snap-on connector.
Install two 5/8-inch motor mount nuts and washers using 15/16-inch wrench after cleaning with wire brush and coating exterior very lightly with Vaseline to inhibit rust.
Install exhaust hose using two SS hose clamps each end.
Put duct tape over bell housing hole on starboard side.
Check transmission fluid level.
Crank engine and observe no clattering.